What about this mix.

Thanks Duane for your offer.I will definitly keep you at the top of my list.Have heard lot of great things about your dogs.But after the big news yesterday about our second child on the way I figure I might have to put a new dog second on the list, for awhile anyway.But I will be talking to ya.Also do you ship dogs this far east...thanks
 
Oh, I see. So what you are saying is that all you have to do for your pups is spend some time with them, show them game, praise them when they do good, scold them when they do bad, hunt them with an older dog to learn from, and teach them to follow you when you say so that way you don't have to use a leash.

Did I get it right? Well, some would call that training. Not me though, I use a system of flash cards with my dogs, and on saturdays we have a seminar where we discuss techniques for proper nose development, and what they should in the case that we should get separated in the woods. Sunday we exercise vocal cords, and learn proper grammar and etiquette, and tuesdays we work on jugitsu and ty chi.

Unfortunately none of my dogs are hunting right now because they are all suffering from "post dramatic stress" from an incident they had a few months ago, but I'm hoping that with time and prozac I can get them back to the woods.
 
Mt.Boy, your looking for a "decoy dog", your not looking for the same thing a hound catch and hold guy is looking for. Two totally seperate deals.

Listen to guys like Duane, he will get you a dog more suited to your needs.

I am guessing, being from WV you hunt in a lot of cover, again guessing you would not want a far ranging decoy dog. Guessing you most likely would not want it to roam out of sight. A dog that waits for coyotes to come to your calling vs. going out to find them or a mix inbetween.

Agression in a decoy dog or over agression is about as bad as to timid. All it will do is run off everything but the super agressive coyotes. It will get old real quick watching your dog run off coyotes or have them hold up at 400 or more yards after a hard run by the dog. the dog has to establish itself as a threat but a threat the coyote or coyotes can handle. It does that by bluffing, short runs at it then turn off and return over and over to build confidence in the coyote that the dog is something it can handle. When and if you get one of those dogs is when you will understand the value of a good decoy dog.

IMO the only fighting a decoy dog needs do is fight to get back to me if need be.

Some are just running dogs out the door to make a quick buck with little to no actual decoy training. It's more finess than teeth IMO. Actual decoying in a young dogs training takes numerous coyotes to get it to a point that it becomes second nature to the dog. Where it shouldn't need a collar.

Reading Duanes posts should tell you he has this in his training and shows a true passion in his dogs. Not only hunting but overall dog care, bloodlies etc.

The decoy dog you need and what a guy in the wide open prairie needs may be two different things. The things I need as an ADC guy in a dog vs what a recreational caller needs in a dog hunted in the fur season is different. A dog that will be with a family in town vs. in a rural environment makes a difference. I think a good many dogs have started out as a really cool deal but have fallen by the wayside unhunted because it wasn't what they thought it would be. Kind of like the guy who thought the Ecaller would fill up his pickup with coyotes by just buying it.

You'll get back what you put into this deal, quality of the dog and your drive to hunt it to make it the best it can be. They don't learn squat in a kennel.
 
Originally Posted By: coyote_roedeMt.Boy, your looking for a "decoy dog", your not looking for the same thing a hound catch and hold guy is looking for. Two totally seperate deals.

Listen to guys like Duane, he will get you a dog more suited to your needs.

I am guessing, being from WV you hunt in a lot of cover, again guessing you would not want a far ranging decoy dog. Guessing you most likely would not want it to roam out of sight. A dog that waits for coyotes to come to your calling vs. going out to find them or a mix inbetween.

Agression in a decoy dog or over agression is about as bad as to timid. All it will do is run off everything but the super agressive coyotes. It will get old real quick watching your dog run off coyotes or have them hold up at 400 or more yards after a hard run by the dog. the dog has to establish itself as a threat but a threat the coyote or coyotes can handle. It does that by bluffing, short runs at it then turn off and return over and over to build confidence in the coyote that the dog is something it can handle. When and if you get one of those dogs is when you will understand the value of a good decoy dog.

IMO the only fighting a decoy dog needs do is fight to get back to me if need be.

Some are just running dogs out the door to make a quick buck with little to no actual decoy training. It's more finess than teeth IMO. Actual decoying in a young dogs training takes numerous coyotes to get it to a point that it becomes second nature to the dog. Where it shouldn't need a collar.

Reading Duanes posts should tell you he has this in his training and shows a true passion in his dogs. Not only hunting but overall dog care, bloodlies etc.

The decoy dog you need and what a guy in the wide open prairie needs may be two different things. The things I need as an ADC guy in a dog vs what a recreational caller needs in a dog hunted in the fur season is different. A dog that will be with a family in town vs. in a rural environment makes a difference. I think a good many dogs have started out as a really cool deal but have fallen by the wayside unhunted because it wasn't what they thought it would be. Kind of like the guy who thought the Ecaller would fill up his pickup with coyotes by just buying it.

You'll get back what you put into this deal, quality of the dog and your drive to hunt it to make it the best it can be. They don't learn squat in a kennel.



outstanding post...
 
I don't agree that that was a great post... I agree that in thick cover things may be different and that a dog living in town might not be able to get away with the same stuff in the yard, as a guy that lives out of town, but a good decoy dog is going to be the same no matter what.

It doesn't matter if you're doing ADC work or are a serious decoy dogger, the dogs will be really similar. The end objective are coyotes decoyed to the gun and killed. I have raised several serious decoy dogs that have worked great for ADC guys with the outfit, and I was just a decoy dogger that lived in town.

The cross you talked about COULD produce some outstanding decoy dogs, the only way to find out is to give one a whirl and then you'll only find out if one would work for you, in your country.

I personally love a good APBT, and like a friend of mine said... There are many breeds that could use a good shot of good APBT blood, but none that could help a good APBT!
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If you're looking for a good decoy dog and are on a tight budget, try one and see what you get. You'll be amazed at what taking a dog that will listen and handle out decoying can produce, I know lots of good predator control men that have been very successful with collie or collie/X type dogs, because they were hunted and exposed to the right situations and controlled in a manner that would help them speak coyote.


I can list very many more that were unsuccessful with the best bred Striker bred Kemmers that fell short because they were not hunted and exposed right, to make the kind of dog it takes to decoy coyotes.

That being said, I would start out with a well bred, Striker bred Kemmer Cur that has been bred from Parents that do the job for guys that make their living with them, killing coyotes and other predators.

Even then, you'll have to hunt the hair off them and expose them to the right situations for them to start speaking Coyote... Truth is most don't make the grade, even from the best blood, parents and breeders.

At the end of the day it is all about having fun doing something you love! So to answer your question, in my opinion, one of those pups could make a great decoy dog. A whole lot of that is up to you.

Only one way to find out.

Best of luck and take care.
 
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Catdawg, I like the way you think.

Devin is correct, you could always send dogs for me to teach. We are accepting applications for the fall semester right now. Early enrollment begins July first. Your dogs will be expected to supply their own number two pencils, a scientific calculator, and a laptop with microsoft office 10.

Also plan about $25 a day for meals should your dog choose to eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner at our on-campus cafe.
 
Randy, You are right on the money.Thats exactly what I want.Catwacker,I totally hear ya.I agree with alot of that.Great info fellas thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: Catdawg

I personally love a good APBT, and like a friend of mine said... There are many breeds that could use a good shot of good APBT blood, but none that could help a good APBT!
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I could not agree more.

Tim
 
Originally Posted By: Jesse lackeyCatdawg, I like the way you think.

Devin is correct, you could always send dogs for me to teach. We are accepting applications for the fall semester right now. Early enrollment begins July first. Your dogs will be expected to supply their own number two pencils, a scientific calculator, and a laptop with microsoft office 10.

Also plan about $25 a day for meals should your dog choose to eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner at our on-campus cafe.

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Tim
 
Alot of good info in this thread, and some not so much.
You sort through and decide whats what.
Catdawg, makes a great point, there is nothing but time involved in giving a dog a chance.
 
I agree 100% with Catdawg. Exposure to coyotes and good handling will make or break a dog. I bet I can go to the dog pound and pick up a dang bird dog and turn him into a coyote dog, as long as, he has a head on his shoulders and gets to hating coyotes. A dog that lives on the couch or the chain, won't be worth 2 cents, no matter what the breeding is.

I for one, want a dog that'll definitely fight a coyote, if I sick them on it. I rely on the collar to control them and train them to turn 180 degrees and head back to me, at the second it goes off. If they don't have the aggression, you can't put it in there. Then you have nothing more than a pet, IMO.

I've been experimenting with APBT blood in my dogs and have been pleased so far with it. I have a pit female that'll hunt all day long. She's not some inbred fighting machine, that some dub them to be. She's got a strong hunting drive and the calmest and most well mannered dog on the ranch. I've bred pit/greyhound crosses and border collie/greyhound crosses in my past for coursing coyotes. Point being, many good dogs are crosses. It wouldn't hurt to pick up a free pup and try him out.

Tony
 
True statement. I expect both from dogs, otherwise they don't live here long. Too many mouths to feed to hold onto one that doesn't do both.
 
I agree that it probably isn't the norm. I know that we keep our Mattie dog chained up by the house, not because she's a pit, but because she'll take off and be gone all day and night hunting jackrabbits.
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